Future Fashion at the V&A

Last week I immersed myself in the world of decorative arts at the Victoria and Albert museum. I was searching for print design inspiration for a textile course I have coming up in December. More about that in a later post.

While I was at the V&A I took the opportunity to have a look at 'Future Fashion Now' an exhibition showing work by the 2008 fashion graduates from the Royal College of Art. The exhibition presents concept, technique, form and detail by displaying student's sketchbooks, inspiration images, experimental mock-up designs and finished outfits.

Here are a few of my favourites. All displays were behind glass so please excuse any odd reflections on the photos.

Designs by Lea Carreno

Bold grafics and unexpected colour combinations.

Wool, viscose and copper.

Inspired by avant-garde designs of 1920's & 30's.

Designs by Lea Carreno

Juxtaposing fine and heavy guage knits to create interesting buoyancy and movement.

Left: Wool, silk and viscose

Right: Wool, viscose and leather

Design by Timothy Lee

A creative solution to making fabric stand away from the body.

Invisible strips of fused wool form an under-structure to produce controlled folds.

Jacket: Leather

Dress: wool, viscose and neoprene

Design by Timothy Lee

Stiff neoprene becomes the integral part of the coat's streamlined collar.

Exaggerated shoulders are heavily padded.

Coat: wool, silk and neoprene

Dress: viscose and neoprene

Design by Abbie Shaw

Fused fabric and wadding give structure to this boxy dress.

The card model reveals how the pattern was constructed.

Dress: wool

Neckpiece: acrylic and cotton

Design by Hiekki Salonen

The coat's silhouette was created by experimenting with traditional tailoring techniques.

The fringe and raw edges reveal the coat's previous life as a blanket.

Fabric: wool and silk

Designs by Hiekki Salonen

Gilet: cotton and silk

Dress: silk and faux pearls

High fashion with sustainable fabrics

I would like to thank the Ethical Fashion Forum for organising the Global Soucing Marketplace at the end of last week. It was an opportunity for buyers and designers to meet with fabric suppliers and garment producers working to supply sustainable, organic and fair trade fashion products.

The exhibition also featured One-off designs by Vivienne Westwood, Zandra Rhodes, Bora Aksu and Preen. Each designer worked with fabrics and components sourced from African manufacturers and community groups to show how sustainable fabrics can become high fashion.

Bora Aksu

Organic cotton and silk

Vivienne Westwood

Bark cloth and organic cotton

Preen

Kenyan Kilkoy fabrics

Zandra Rhodes

Bark cloth

All images by Re-Design for Life

Bairro Alto

I have recently returned from a few days in Lisbon, Portugal where I fell in love with the narrow cobbled streets of the Bairro Alto - the Old Quarter. The Bairro's maze of streets holds an eclectic mix of traditional and modern Lisbon. Fashionable boutiques, contemporary art galleries, cool bars, modern restaurants, traditional Fado music clubs, charming grocery shops and original homes stand side by side.

Nowhere is the mix of old and new more evident than from the exterior of the buildings. I was fascinated by the intricate patterns created by traditional ceramic tiles; the beautiful designs within aged wrought iron railings, precariously perched on upper floor windows; the pretty colours of more recently painted plaster-work; the modern graffiti painted walls.

Ahhh! Yes the graffiti. In places artistic. In others, scrawled across walls and doors of people's homes. I wonder does this also show an eclectic mix of the traditional and contemporary working together side by side? Or, is it simply the demise of an historical area through vandalism?

Bairro Alto, Lisbon

Image by Re-Design For Life

Bairro Alto, Lisbon

Image by Re-Design For Life

Bairro Alto, Lisbon

Image by Re-Design For Life

Bairro Alto, Lisbon

Image by Re-Design For Life

Hidden vintage gems

Vien

(Image by Re-Design for Life)

Is it only me? Or has anyone else set out with the sole purpose of buying a specific item only to return with something completely different? I was back in Crystal Palace - an area of London that really is a hidden gem for retro and vintage lovers – with the intention of buying a retro coffee table. I returned home with a vintage dress.

I'd found myself in Vien, a treasure trove of a boutique owned by the vivacious Vivienne Bartholomew. Vien sells an eclectic selection of unique vintage clothing including a wonderful choice of Fifties dresses, elegant eveningwear, tailoring and accessories. A Lurex batwing top from the 80’s caught my eye. As did a metallic jacquard top – very Marni. Ahhh! But it was a Little Black Dress with sheer voluminous sleeves that won me over. A perfect fit. How could I resist.

All of Vien’s vintage is in excellent condition without eye-popping price tags – easily less than half the price of similar vintage clothes you would see in boutiques around Portobello Road and Cheshire Street. Vien also holds a small range made from surplus and vintage fabrics under it’s eponymous label. I thought the vintage range was much stronger. This is where Vivienne’s eye for detail, love of fabrics and passion shines through.

Crystal Palace may not have the style of Notting Hill or the cool factor of the East End but it’s definitely worth taking a detour for. You never know what vintage treasures you might come home with.

Mid Century Design in the Village

Dulwich College, Dulwich, London SE21.

Yesterday I headed off to the Mid Century Modern show being held in one of those London enclaves oddly known as a village. However, this part of London justifies the title. Dulwich Village has all the hallmarks of an English village despite being part of South East London's borough of Southwark. We drove alongside it's white picket fences, quaint shops and cafes, grand Georgian mansions and the Dulwich Picture Gallery before arriving at our destination. The magnificent Dulwich College. An impressive red brick building with large arched windows and statues carved into the stonework. Certainly a far cry from any college or school I have ever studied at. Not a pre-fab in sight!

Once inside, the design style changed to mid 20th Century as three large halls and a mezzanine level were stylishly filled for the day with Scandinavian, American and English retro furniture, 1950's textiles, huge modernist ceiling lights, glassware and glazed pottery signed by well known 20th Century designers with prices to occasionally raise an eyebrow. This was certainly a show for those people not psychologically equipped for flea markets, car-boot sales and junk shops.

Having said that there were many things that caught my eye and tugged at my purse strings:

Retro cushions and furniture at Emma Loves Retro

Emma Glibbery has a passion for retro textiles - she loves the large scale prints and bold colours. Emma re-designs discarded curtains and clothes into bright and beautiful cushions for her label Emma Loves Retro. Mid century furniture is also available, which Emma will source to customers' requests. It was the dining chairs shown in the corner of this photo that I considered buying - very reasonably priced at just over £200 for four.

Retro inspired hand-crafted products were also on show. I particular liked the whimsical designs traditionally screen-printed onto wallpaper by Lizzie Allen. All designs are hand-printed to order by Lizzie at her London studio. The paper is sourced from managed forests and any wastage is recycled at the local mill.

I'm torn between (no pun intended) the London City Gents design and the Jazz in Cental Park design. Two of my favourite cities. It's a difficult choice.

London City Gents wallpaper by Lizzie Allen

Jazz in central park wallpaper by Lizzie Allen

Retropolitan have a wonderful collection of gorgeous glassware, post war kitsch and mid 20th Century style objects. The glassware on display was truely gorgeous: solid jewel colours as well as swirling ombre effects. My only concern was that I might drop something only to be surrounded by shards of beautifully coloured glass.

Glassware and mid 20th Century ceramics from Retropolitan.

I gingerly moved on to admire a 1960's suitcase on the same stand. Perfect for filling with retro bits and pieces that I've accumulated. It would have been a great statement bag for my college books too.

Retro suitcase from retropolitan

Inspiration Knocks

Beautiful antique door furniture.

Delicate. Yet, strong.

Le Marais, Paris.

(Images by Re-Design for LIfe)

Topshop markets sustainability

Kate Moss for Top Shop AW09

via Google Images

As we approach the end of what has been a difficult and uncertain financial year, retailers are launching their Christmas marketing campaigns to boost sales figures by enticing customers to purchase new outfits for the festive season.

I have to praise the innovative marketing team at Top Shop for launching a dress hire service as one of their Christmas marketing initiatives. Celebrities including Kate Moss and Dita Von Teese have agreed to donate dresses, which will be available for shoppers to hire for up to four days from December 7-23. In January, once the party season is over, the dresses will be auctioned off with all profits being donated to Age UK, a charity for the elderly.

Once again, it's a savvy marketing venture from Top Shop. One that I can't knock. The campaign high-lights sustainable fashion by encouraging shoppers to hire an 'one-off' dress rather than purchase a new mass-produced dress. A new dress that may never be worn again once the party season is over.

Never too cold for sandals

Image via mohop.com

I have never liked my toes! I don’t want to go into detail. All I’m saying is they appear longer than average. There. I’ve said it. My secret is out. But my toes are staying in.

In summer, I try to wear shoes as often as possible. Or I wear sandals with enough coverage to hide the offending toes. Ah! But when Winter arrives, I rejoice the open toed sandal. Worn with socks, of course.

You see, I enjoy the unexpected mix of socks, opaques and woolly tights worn with strappy sandals. There's something interesting about a contrasting print and texture peeking through or even bunching up between the straps. I like to subvert that old style rule that socks with sandals is a major faux pas.

Imagine my delight when I came across Mohops. These innovative, environmentally friendly sandals are hand-crafted by Annie Mohaupt in her Chicago studio. The ergonomically designed soles are made from solid walnut, maple or cherry from sustainably managed forests. Ribbons of different lengths, colour and fabric can be threaded through the elastic loops to create an infinite number of looks with just one pair of sandals.

Fantastic for your individuality, your budget, your storage space and for sustainable fashion. What's more, they look fabulous with socks and woolly tights.

Re-Designed by Gary Harvey

The time has come for a ruthless clear-out. It appears that I have applied the same logic to my computer's hard-drive as I have to my loft: cram in as much inspirational material as possible, never throw away / delete anything.

You see, clicking and dragging file after file into the trash icon seems an incredibly dull task to me. I'd much rather be in my loft dodging spiders and wooden beams in the search for forgotten pieces of fabric. Or so I thought until - mid click and drag - I came across these long-ago saved images.

Creative consultant Gary Harvey re-designed these outfits by reconstructing discarded garments. Why I haven't shared these images earlier I have no idea.

Seeing these outfits again has inspired me to make better use of the clothes and fabrics that I am hoarding in my loft. So while you take a look at Gary's creativity I'm off to join the spiders in my loft.

Denim Dress by Gary Harvey

Made from 42 pairs of discarded Levi 501 jeans.

"Jeans are one of the most hardwearing garments... Since the transition from 'work-wear' to fashion, jeans are often discarded for the latest silhouette before the end of their useful life"

Black T.Shirt Dress by Gary Harvey

Made from 37 black logo t.shirts.

"Logo tees... often given away by brands or bought as souvenirs, one of the cheapest garments to make, often made in appalling conditions by workers earning less than the minimum wage."

Baseball Puffball Dress by Gary Harvey

Made from 26 nylon Baseball jackets.

"Sportswear was originally designed as a uniform for athletes..., since entering the mainstream fashion arena in the 1980's, we've seen loads of non-biodegradable garments discarded at the end of the season for new team kit or the latest fashion trend."