Nuue by Jungeun Lee

Nuue
by Jungeun Lee
www.studiokoya.com

Jungeun Lee graduated from London's Royal College of Art in 2011 with an MA in Mixed Media/ Textiles.  Through experimenting and researching unconventional methods of creating garments, Jungeun created the Nuue project.

Nuue, a Korean word that means cocoon, is a collection of zero-waste garments produced by wrapping and heating synthetic fibres around a form.  The result is unexpected sculptural silhouettes that have a flexible texture. 

Although this innovative process eliminates the wastage associated with traditional garment and textile production, it cannot be ignored that the materials that Jungeun uses for Nuue are petroleum based.  That said, it does not take away from her creativity or the potential of her discovered technique.  The results, of which, are unconventionally beautiful.

www.studiokoya.com

Nuue
by Jungeun Lee
www.studiokoya.com

Nuue
by Jungeun Lee
www.studiokoya.com

Nuue
by Jungeun Lee
www.studiokoya.com

Fabrica Social - innovating and empowering Mexican women

The Dzitnup
a co-operative to innovate and empower Mayan women

Image via Hand Eye magazine

I have been meaning to share these images for some time now ...

The Dzitnup
a co-operative to innovate and empower Mayan women

Image via Hand Eye magazine

I also want to share with you the work of Fabrica Social.  Fabrica Social is a Mexican non-profit organisation, which works with co-operatives in artisan communities throughout Mexico.  It's objective is to empower and innovate indigenous women through design and garment making skills.

One of the co-operatives associated with Fabrica Social is The Dzitnup, which works with a group of Mayan women in Valladollid, Yucatan.  Women in this area create the traditional "huipils", which are  hand-crafted blouses that are embroidered with brightly coloured designs.  The elaborate designs incorporate vibrant florals and geometric motifs together with symbols of fertility and beauty.

Huipils are wearable art works, which represent the women's Mayan heritage.

The Dzitnup
a co-operative to innovate and empower Mayan women

Image via Hand Eye magazine

Complete article: http://handeyemagazine.com/content/fabrica-social-0

Mady Dooijes

Mady Dooijes
Textile Designer

Mady Dooijes creates small collections - including one off pieces - using organic, natural and reclaimed fabrics.  All pieces are dyed by hand to create a subtle, ethereal style to her collections.

Inspired by poetry, art, imperfections, travels and antiques.

Mady also has a beautiful blog abundance.

Loredana Novotni - "Sacred" hand crafted concepts.

Loredana Loredana

"Sacred" couture collection - MA degree

Loredana Novotni's conceptual capsule collection "Sacred" focuses upon hand-crafted knit and crochet techniques to create innovative textures, with an emphasis upon a structured silhouette.  Each intricately hand-crafted piece in the collection took Novotni a month to complete.  The results are stunning.

Loredana Novotni has always loved to draw since she was a young child.  With no thoughts of becoming a fashion designer, Loredana simply loved to make dresses for dolls.  When she was 7 years old her mother and grandmother taught her to knit and crochet.  These hand-crafted techniques became an integral part of Novotni's design style, "I like to work with textiles, I like to discover new textures, new ways to do things."

Novotni sees fashion as an art form.  Art that can be touched.  Interacted with.  Novotni explains "Design should have soul and should touch the five senses of a person.  Each design must be as unique as the artist."

Loredana Novotni has recently started to work with concept stores in her home country, Romania. Her future ambitions include expanding her brand into other countries and the opportunity for "various collaborations with other designers and known artists"

I wish her every success for the future.

Loredana Loredana

"Sacred" couture collection - MA degree

Loredana Loredana

"Sacred" couture collection - MA degree

Shao-Yen Chen - One to Watch Award

Shao Yen
Goddess Collection - Autumn Winter 2011/12
Image by ReDesign for Life

I am so excited to read that Shao-Yen Chen has received a Ones to Watch award from the Vauxhall Fashion Scout.  The 'Goddess' collection certainly caught my eye when it was presented at London Fashion Week in February.  A wonderfully innovative use of textures, embellishment and colour brought together in delicately sculptured silhouettes.  The designer has created a trademark for experimentation with textiles and silhouette, explaining it is "a way of reinventing traditional crafts with new materials and forms."

The One's to Watch award was set-up to support and help emerging, innovative designers to build sustainable businesses.  As part of the award, Shao-Yen's SS12 collection will be shown on the Fashion Scout catwalk during London Fashion Week in September.

Inspirations for the new collection have been taken from 80's and 90's street-wear with tribal, punk and bondage elements.  I can't wait to see it.  Especially when Shao-Yen's design philosophy is "be open to everything"

Shao Yen
Goddess Collection - Autumn Winter 2011/12
Image by ReDesign for Life

Shao Yen
Goddess Collection - Autumn Winter 2011/12
Image by ReDesign for Life

Ekaterina Kukhareva - Undercover Queen

Ekaterina Kukhareva
Spring Summer 2010 - Undercover Queen

As we come to the end of an Autumn Winter season dominated by chunky cable knits, oversized boyfriend cardigans and sloppy 'grunge' inspired jumpers - all of which I have succumbed to with open arms - it is so refreshing to come across Ekaterina Kukhareva's Spring Summer collection - Undercover Queen.

This high-end, sexy-chic knitwear collection takes it's inspiration from a mythological Egypt, ancient Queen Cleopatra and the techniques used by designers Herve Leger and Azzedine Alaia.

Each beautifully hand-crafted piece in the collection can take Kukhareva up to seven days to construct, including two days to make the fabric.  Traditional techniques of macrame, fringing and crochet have been used with opulent embellishment to create timeless pieces for strong, sensual, modern women.

See the complete range at www.kukhareva.com

Ekaterina Kukhareva
Spring Summer 2010 - Undercover Queen

Ekaterina Kukhareva
Spring Summer 2010 - Undercover Queen

Ekaterina Kukhareva
Spring Summer 2010 - Undercover Queen

Ekaterina Kukhareva
Spring Summer 2010 - Undercover Queen

Ekaterina Kukhareva
Spring Summer 2010 - Undercover Queen

British Fashion Council - Emerging Talent Award

In a season of camel coats, camel trousers and general minimal beige-ness, it's a welcome relief to read that the British Fashion Council has nominated the following designers for it's 2010 Emerging Talent Award.

Michael van der Ham
Autumn Winter 2010
Image byMorgan O'Donovan

Michael van der Ham - a favourite of mine - who has a talent for combining mismatched textures, prints and colours to create beautiful silhouettes.

Mary Katrantzou
Autumn Winter 2010
Image by Billa Baldwin

Mary Katrantzou, who has made an incredible impact with her bold graphics and industrial jewellery.

Meadham Kirchhoff
Autumn Winter 2010
Image by Morgan O'Donovan

Meadham Kirchoff, who created a flurry of excitment amongst fashion media with their AW10 collection designed for uncompromising, aware and individual women.


I look forward to seeing their new collections at London Fashion Week ... I'll keep you posted.

Dark, sensual and sustainable - Minna AW10

Minna AW10 Collection

Image by permission of Minna Hepburn

Inspired by the classic 1950's film noir period, designer Minna Hepburn has moved away from her usual soft colours and vintage cream lace to create a sophisticated collection in a palette of black and hand-dyed shades of grey. The collection still maintains Minna's signature quirky details and plenty of lace, only much darker.

Minna has used luxurious fabrics such as Scottish lace, Hemp/silk, organic wool, vintage textiles and leather off-cuts to create sensual dresses with an urban edge. Hand embellishment adds exquisite and unexpected detailing to the collection.

With this new design direction, Minna is one of my favourite 'Eco' fashion collections for AW10.

Minna AW10 Collection

Image by permission of Minna Hepburn

Minna AW10 Collection

Image by permission of Minna Hepburn

Minna AW10 Collection

Image by permission of Minna Hepburn

Awamaki Lab - Fashion Mentorship opportunity

Image with permission from Awamaki Lab

There are many designers – myself included – who have taken inspiration from the traditional textiles of Peru. For me, it’s the vibrant hues woven together to create stunning colour combinations and patterns that I have been drawn to, which in turn has created a fascination for me with Peru itself. The indigenous people, their culture and the country’s landscape.

So imagine my excitement when I came across Awamaki Lab, a fashion mentorship program that works in conjunction with Awamaki, a Peruvian NGO that runs a textile revitalization project to help impoverished Quechua women weavers improve their skills, gain financial independence and secure a reliable source of income.

Image with permission from Awamaki Lab

Awamaki Lab explores sustainability, ethical sourcing and product innovation. The program – lasting three months - fosters the cross-cultural partnership between the designers and Awamaki’s indigenous weavers.

Image with permission from Awamaki Lab

The designers also receive mentorship from leaders in the ethical design sector. Tara St. James, owner and creative director of New York label Study is Awamaki Lab’s first Design Mentor. Tara is a talented pioneer of ethical fashion – I’ve previously written about her design collective on this blog.

Image with permission from Awamaki Lab

Awamaki Lab offers an unparalleled opportunity for selected designer participants to develop a capsule collection in the serene environment of Ollantaytambo, Peru. Through the process, designers hone their artistic skills and lend a modern perspective to Awamaki’s range of products. This will improve the organization’s marketability and help to stimulate economic growth in the isolated, rural communities where Awamaki works.

Program dates for Awamaki Lab design mentorship program begin August 2010. Full details can be found at www.awamaki.org/awamaki-lab/

Summer Smock by Michelle Lowe-Holder

I met Michelle Lowe-Holder at London Fashion Week in February where she was showing her AW10 accessories collection inspired by the idea of creating treasures from trash - more about that collection in a later post.

Michelle has always loved using traditional textile embellishment techniques in her work, which shines through in her latest collection for SS10 - Summer Smock. In this collection of mainly black and cream pieces, Michelle has redesigned historic "Labourer's Embroidery" from the middle ages, bringing it bang up-to-date with modern shapes created in fluid jersey and ruffled silk.

I love this collection! Each piece has an effortless and unique style. And isn't that what we'd all like to have?

Michelle Lowe-Holder SS10

Michelle Lowe-Holder SS10

Michelle Lowe-Holder SS10

Michelle Lowe-Holder SS10

Michelle Lowe-Holder SS10

Michelle Lowe-Holder SS10

All images by permission of Michelle Lowe-Holder

Spring season arrives at Brixton Market

Spring blossom, layered ruffles and I love that her hair co-ordinates with her skirt.

Spring wraps

A patchwork of Spring greens, cushions that remind me of wrapped sweets and futuristic hoops.

All images by Re-Design for Life

London Fashion Week - Today's key look

Grey was today's dominant colour. A wet-look finish being key. Flashes of bright colour and digital prints highlighted the look.

I'm talking about the look in the courtyard at Somerset House.

Inside was a completely different story. I was very excited by what I saw at Michael van der Ham and Louise Gray ... both extremely talented in their use of fabrics, print and textile finishes. Separate blog on each to come.

Suno New York leads the SS10 fashion tribe

Prada Resort 2010 & Dries van Noten SS2010

I don't know about you but I can't wait for summer to arrive. Ever since those amazing tribal influenced prints came down the SS10 catwalks - back in September - I've been longing to transform my wardrobe with an energising shot of vibrant African print. A flash here. A flash there. All mixed in to revive my summer basics. Oooh! I'm getting quite excited about it now.

Even more exciting is that Suno New York - a label designed in New York and produced in Kenya - is now available in the UK. The label was set up by Max Osterweis as a means to employ local Kenyan talent and showcase some of Kenya's artistry, which could potentially affect positive and lasting social and economic change.

The collections - produced in small, fair trade workshops - incorporate traditional Kenyan kanga prints into modern, eclectic styles with a fashion edge. The collections are testament to the talent behind the label - Kenyan and New Yorker.

Suno New York SS2010

Suno New York SS2010

Suno New York SS2010

A messy week at London Printworks

I’m still scrubbing ink from beneath my fingernails after spending an enjoyable 5 days being creatively messy at the London Print Works last week. I was there along with a small group of people for a workshop induction course, which covered basic textile printing processes through to more complex techniques. Following the induction, designers can hire the fully equipped workshop to produce their work.

We were fortunate to have Dawn Dupree - a talented textile artist and extremely patient tutor - leading the course. Each day Dawn would calmly demonstrate new techniques, which would send us enthusiastically racing back to our print tables to incorporate these into our textiles.

I enjoyed combining colours and textures. I enjoyed experimenting with different techniques. I enjoyed the unexpected results. I enjoyed being messy and I enjoyed wiping my ink-covered hands on my clothes. I really didn’t expect to enjoy myself quite so much. And, I didn’t expect to spend a week with such an open and friendly group of people all sharing ideas and advise. There was a tinge of sadness at the end of the week as we reviewed our work over mince pies and a couple of bottles of wine. I’d like to think we would catch up again. Hopefully, my hands will be clean by then.

London Printworks Trust is the UK’s leading textile print resource. As a registered charity, the trust offers a diverse programme of activities, which combines textile print facilities, exhibitions, professional development and educational activities, particularly work with excluded groups or people who find themselves outside the mainstream education system.

Dreaming of a white christmas

'Crocheted Snow 08' by Abigail Doan

Abigail Doan - writer, editor, environmental artist and one of my blog-list favourites - creates eco-textile installations by combining yarns, textiles and nature. Her work is incredibly beautiful and thought provoking.

Mid Century Design in the Village

Dulwich College, Dulwich, London SE21.

Yesterday I headed off to the Mid Century Modern show being held in one of those London enclaves oddly known as a village. However, this part of London justifies the title. Dulwich Village has all the hallmarks of an English village despite being part of South East London's borough of Southwark. We drove alongside it's white picket fences, quaint shops and cafes, grand Georgian mansions and the Dulwich Picture Gallery before arriving at our destination. The magnificent Dulwich College. An impressive red brick building with large arched windows and statues carved into the stonework. Certainly a far cry from any college or school I have ever studied at. Not a pre-fab in sight!

Once inside, the design style changed to mid 20th Century as three large halls and a mezzanine level were stylishly filled for the day with Scandinavian, American and English retro furniture, 1950's textiles, huge modernist ceiling lights, glassware and glazed pottery signed by well known 20th Century designers with prices to occasionally raise an eyebrow. This was certainly a show for those people not psychologically equipped for flea markets, car-boot sales and junk shops.

Having said that there were many things that caught my eye and tugged at my purse strings:

Retro cushions and furniture at Emma Loves Retro

Emma Glibbery has a passion for retro textiles - she loves the large scale prints and bold colours. Emma re-designs discarded curtains and clothes into bright and beautiful cushions for her label Emma Loves Retro. Mid century furniture is also available, which Emma will source to customers' requests. It was the dining chairs shown in the corner of this photo that I considered buying - very reasonably priced at just over £200 for four.

Retro inspired hand-crafted products were also on show. I particular liked the whimsical designs traditionally screen-printed onto wallpaper by Lizzie Allen. All designs are hand-printed to order by Lizzie at her London studio. The paper is sourced from managed forests and any wastage is recycled at the local mill.

I'm torn between (no pun intended) the London City Gents design and the Jazz in Cental Park design. Two of my favourite cities. It's a difficult choice.

London City Gents wallpaper by Lizzie Allen

Jazz in central park wallpaper by Lizzie Allen

Retropolitan have a wonderful collection of gorgeous glassware, post war kitsch and mid 20th Century style objects. The glassware on display was truely gorgeous: solid jewel colours as well as swirling ombre effects. My only concern was that I might drop something only to be surrounded by shards of beautifully coloured glass.

Glassware and mid 20th Century ceramics from Retropolitan.

I gingerly moved on to admire a 1960's suitcase on the same stand. Perfect for filling with retro bits and pieces that I've accumulated. It would have been a great statement bag for my college books too.

Retro suitcase from retropolitan