Anne Sofie Madsen - Copenhagen Fashion Week

Anne Sofie Madsen - AW12 Collection
photo by Copenhagen Fashion Week

Scanning through the AW12 catwalk shows from Copenhagen Fashion Week, I gasped with delight when I viewed Anne Sofie Madsen's collection.  Such a wonderful display of creative talent. 

The collection combines sombre colours, digital photographic prints, a touch of  tribal pattern and a hint of 1920's frivolity.  All elements brought together to stunning effect.

Anne Sofie Madsen - AW12 Collection
photo by Copenhagen Fashion Week

Anne Sofie Madsen - AW12 Collection
photo by Copenhagen Fashion Week

Born in Denmark, Ann Sofie Madsen studied at the Danish School of Design, she trained under John Galliano for Dior in Paris before  moving to London to work for Alexander McQueen, as a Junior  Designer.

After launching her eponymous label, Ann Sofie Madsen debuted her couture-inspired collection at Vauxhall Fashion Scout during London Fashion Week, being announced as a new rising talent.

Ann Sofie Madsen's AW12 collection is her second catwalk collection at Copenhagen Fashion Week.  I certainly look forward to watching her rise as a major name on the international fashion scene.

Anne Sofie Madsen - AW12 Collection
photo by Copenhagen Fashion Week

Creating Pandamonium with Annie Morris

Clothespins dress by Annie Morris for Burberry

Contemporary artist Annie Morris is creating a sculptural dress for 2012’s World Wildlife Fund Pandamonium 2.   The artist is offering an amazing opportunity to any students with sewing or embroidery skills, to assist her in this exciting project.

The finished dress will be shown as part of a unique catwalk show of wearable sculpture, to raise funds and awareness for the World Wildlife Fund’s 50^th anniversary.   The event, being held on March 31, will show work by 25 leading artists, architects and fashion designers including Grayson Perry, Zaha Hadid, Richard Wilson, Idris Khan, Hussein Chalayan and Annie Morris.  Following the event, there will be a public exhibition of all pieces from the catwalk show.

If you would like to be involved in this exciting and worthwhile project, please contact Dea Vanegan deana@artwisecurators.com 

Source:  Centre for Sustainable Fashion

From Somewhere for Spring 2012

From Somewhere
Spring Summer 2012

www.fromsomewhere.co.uk

Oooh! I'm loving the new Spring Summer '12 collection by From Somewhere.  A creative sustainable label producing collections from luxury designer fabric off-cuts.  Their SS12 collection also includes some of the season's key trends.

There are sportswear influences, including satin trimmed shorts reminiscent of Balenciaga's Resort '12 collection.  A hint of contemporary tribal - a key fashion statement for Summer.  Bright colours - yellow, orange, pink set back against black.  Luscious deep toffee brown.  Tones of petrol blue. Colour blocking mixed with stripes and prints.

From Somewhere
Spring Summer 2012

www.fromsomewhere.co.uk

Of course, no Summer '12 collection would be complete without a nod towards to the Sixties, which continues to be a major influence.  A simple shift dress has been created with panels of mixed textures, including a sky blue jacquard giving this 1960's classic a 2012 spin.  

The full collection can be seen at: www.fromsomewhere.co.uk

From Somewhere
Spring Summer 2012

www.fromsomewhere.co.uk

From Somewhere was established in 1997 by Orsola De Castro and Filippo Ricci.  All womenswear collections are made by up-cycling high-end fashion and surplus textiles - fabric swatches, production off-cuts and end of rolls.  The aim is to produce beautiful clothes that take into account the balance between consumpation and disposal.

Orsola De Castro is the founder of the Estethica.

Future Classics

I recently read an article - in one of those free daily papers available at train stations - about the length of time it takes for a Fashion Editor - of one of those glossy, international, monthly fashion tomes - to be seen wearing outfits from designer catwalk collections.  One Editor, was seen in an outfit from Prada's SS12 collection in a matter of days (it may have been less) after it was shown on the catwalk.

Here starts the dizzying whirl of the fashion wheel for another season.  It's a frantic fashionista race to claim the title for being one of the first to be seen wearing the latest collections.  Here, too, is where I have a confession to make.  On Friday, I found myself caught up in this race.  

Future Classics brocade fabric
at Save the Children, Westbourne Grove

Image by Re-Design for Life

I'd popped into the Save the Children shop on Westbourne Grove in Notting Hill.  As I was taking a leisurely flick through the rails,  I noticed something shimmering in the light.  I hastily pushed back a selection of clothes to reveal a brocade skirt, which instantly reminded me of the plethora of brocade skirts shown on the Spring Summer '12 catwalks.  Without hesitation, I whipped it from the rail. Tried it on.  Loved it.  Bought it.  A key fashion piece for my wardrobe. 

Brocade skirt by Future Classics
at Save the Children, Westbourne Grove.

Image by Re-Design for Life

This brocade skirt was donated to Save the Children by fashion label Future Classics, who donate many samples to the Westbourne Grove store.  

Thank you to Future Classics for helping me in my moment of being a Frantic Fashionista.  More importantly, thank you for your fashion donations towards helping Save the Children.

Corrie Nielsen - A modern couturier

Corrie Nielsen
SS12 - Arbiter Elegantiarum

Photographer: Christoper Dadey

Arbiter Elegantiarum is the title of Corrie Nielsen's SS12 collection, which was shown on the catwalk on Friday as part of London Fashion Week.  Arbiter Elegantiarum - a judge or authority in matters of taste.

Corrie Nielsen dipped into a dark Victorian mood for this collection, with inspirations taken from Oscar Wilde's gothic novel, The Picture of Dorian Grey together with influences of late nineteenth century men's tailored dress, which was brought together with a contemporary Japanese aesthetic.

Architectural silhouettes, meticulous pleating and innovative folding techniques were executed in great swathes of sumptuous fabrics.  All brought together in a restrained colour palette of deep midnight blue, gunmetal grey and ivory, with a flash of chartreuse throughout.

The overall effect was refined, elegant and contemporary.

After seeing the collection, it comes as no surprise to me that Corrie Nielsen has been described as a modern couturier and true fashion visionary.

Corrie Nielsen
SS12 - Arbiter Elegantiarum

Photographer: Christoper Dadey

Corrie Nielsen
SS12 - Arbiter Elegantiarum

Photographer: Christoper Dadey

Corrie Nielsen
SS12 - Arbiter Elegantiarum

Photographer: Christoper Dadey

Corrie Nielsen
SS12 - Arbiter Elegantiarum

Photographer: Christoper Dadey

Corrie Nielsen
SS12 - Arbiter Elegantiarum

Photographer: Christoper Dadey

Corrie Nielsen
SS12 - Arbiter Elegantiarum

Photographer: Christoper Dadey

Corrie Nielsen
SS12 - Arbiter Elegantiarum

Photographer: Christoper Dadey

Suno - SS11 at New York Fashion Week

I've just spent an hour or so outfit building for Autumn Winter - can't wait to start layering all those lovely textures together - long floor sweeping silk skirts with chunky knits, metallic jacquards with - I'm not sure what yet.  Delicate vintage lace with my 1980's shearling flying jacket.

Then I see Suno's Spring Summer '11 collection, which makes me yearn to wear light fabrics, fresh colours, bare legs with those amazing printed wedge sandals.

Suno - Spring Summer 2011 Collection
All collection images via Style.com

Suno garments are artisanally produced in small workshops in Kenya.

Le Marais and Marni - SS2010 inspiration

Natural raffia bag with citrus and floral embroidery

Image by Redesign for Life

Spot raffia bag and 1930's bakerlite earrings and bangles

Image by Redesign for LIfe

Embroidered raffia bag and 1950's painted flower brooches

Image by Redesign for Life

I came across these images yesterday whilst having a spring clean on my computer. I'd taken them one evening as I was walking through Paris's Le Marais district. It's a window display from a vintage shop that specialises in interiors and accessories. I can't remember the name but it's on Rue des Francs Bourgeois.

The whole display has a 1950's Latino Carmen Miranda feel to it, don't you think? I love the vintage raffia bag embroidered in vibrant citrus colours. Such a statement! Those chunky bangles are original 1930's bakerlite. Pile 'em on and clash those colours. Ah! but it's the huge bauble earrings that are to die for! Wear these and you'll be so on trend this summer.

Not sure? Then check out Marni's SS2010 collection...

Vibrant citrus colours at Marni SS2010

Image via Style.com

Large drop earrings at Marni SS2010

Image via Style.com

Louise Gray: Quilt Me, Change Me.

Louise Gray

Quilt Me, Change Me

Autumn Winter 2010

It's two weeks since I wobbled across the cobbled court yard of Somerset House in seriously uncomfortable boots. Grimacing as I entered the LFW New Generation exhibition, I found my pain relief in Louise Gray's Autumn Winter 2010 collection. Her exuberant range was presented on hand-drawn drawn figures with sea-side style cut-out holes for faces. The overall mood was definitely for a sense of fun. And it certainly made me smile.

The Quilt Me, Change Me collection is a collage of delicious colour and intriguing textures. Louise Gray is an innovative textile designer. By using traditional methods of devore, quilting and patchwork, Louise transforms fabrics into something completely different.

I was captivated by the contrasting colours, prints and textures used in off-kilter panel dresses and skirts.

A stunning red kimono coat was one of my favourite pieces. The incredible 3D texture was created by applying devore - where fabric is burned away - onto layers of quilted fabrics. The top layer of fabric had almost disappeared to leave a hounds-tooth effect of threads caught in place by the quilting.

By pushing the boundaries of textile design, Louise has created a collection of refreshingly modern pieces to be worn with a smile.

Louise Gray

Autumn Winter 2010

Image by Re-Design for Life

Louise Gray

Autumn Winter 2010

Image by Re-Design for Life

Louise Gray

Autumn Winter 2010

Image by Re-Design for Life

Ada Zanditon - Echolocation

Ada Zanditon - Echolocation - AW10

Image by permission of Ada Zanditon

Opposite the house where I grew up stood a row of very tall trees. At dusk, when the sky turned carbon bluish grey, the trees’ blackened silhouettes came alive with dark flecks that darted amongst the high branches. Our neighbouring bats had awoken. Although I often wondered whether they were related to Dracula – who had visited my local seaside town – I was always more mesmerised than frightened by the nocturnal activities of these little winged creatures that had spent all day hanging upside down.

Ada Zanditon’s fascination for bats and their conservation inspired her Autumn Winter 2010 collection Echolocation. Whilst looking across a low set winter sky from her studio window, Zanditon imagined bats ”mysterious and eerie…with their fine structured wings” navigating and communicating their way in a nocturnal world. A world in which, sadly, their numbers are plummeting.

From this initial concept Zanditon has created a stunning collection combining digital prints - inspired by bare branches and beating wings - with structured silhouettes, geometric pleated panels, body-con styling and elegant full length dresses. All pieces are produced in East London using organic cottons, Shetland wool, high quality silk taffeta and organza - all eco-dyed or digitally printed in the bruised colours of a winter sky: purples, indigo, grey and black with flashes of bright fuchsia, jade and teal.

When I asked Ada how she became interested in ethical and sustainable fashion she explained to me that she had always been interested in the environment. Whilst studying fashion she attended a presentation by Katherine Hamnett, which inspired her to combine her two passions of fashion and conservation.

With this innovative collection of wearable, eye-catching pieces, Ada Zanditon has successfully communicated her design talents as well as her passion for conservation. Especially for the bat population.

Ada Zanditon - Echolocation - AW10

All images by permission of Ada Zanditon

Ada Zanditon - Echolocation - AW10

All images by permission of Ada Zanditon

Michael van der Ham - New Generation LFW

Michael van der Ham AW10

Image: elle.co.uk

Michael van der Ham - the unassuming yet extremely talented designer behind his eponymous label - appeared slightly embarrassed as I waxed lyrical about his stunning new collection. As I gasped with delight at each beautifully crafted piece he smiled quietly. I wondered whether I was being unfashionably over-the-top? Perhaps I needed to calm myself down.

For his AW10 collection, Michael has used silk devore, silk chiffon, mohair, organza and liberty prints all patch-worked together with a skillful eye for colour, texture and print to create feminine pieces with an eccentric twist. For women who "are not afraid to wear something a little more bold."

Each piece is perfectly executed and produced to a high standard in the UK. These are very special pieces to treasure for ever.

Michael van der Ham - AW10

Image: Re-Design for LIfe

Michael van der Ham - AW10

Image: Re-Design for LIfe

Prophetik AW10 - Catwalk Images

You'll know - from my post after the Prophetik show on Friday - how much I loved the collection. You'll also know how upset I was that I didn't manage to get any images - totally down to me fumbling around with the settings on my camera. I was really annoyed with myself because I wanted to share with you what I'd seen. So, I'd like to say a big thank you to Courtney (Prophetik's PR) for sending these photos to me.

Vivienne Westwood makes a statement at London Fashion Week

Vivienne Westwood Red Label AW10

Style.com

Vivienne Westwood showed her Red Label collection at London Fashion Week on Sunday. Always one to use her catwalk shows as an opportunity to make political statements, Dame Vivienne opened the show with printed t-shirts to draw attention to climate change. The show continued with her statement tartans, beautifully cut tailoring, signature twisted and draped silhouettes together with flashes of pink, coral and bright orange.

Vivienne Westwood Red Label AW10

londonfashionweek.co.uk

Vivienne Westwood Red Label AW10

londonfashionweek.co.uk

Vivienne Westwood Red Label AW10

londonfashionweek.co.uk

Prophetik AW10 -Sustainable collection with rock attitude

Prophetik’s AW10 show opened at Vauxhall Fashion Scout yesterday to the haunting sound of a lone violin. Violinist Anna Crawd walked slowly onto the dimly lit catwalk where she was accompanied by guitarist Jason Bynum. As they played their blue-grass tune they were joined by a ghost like model dressed in a black vintage silk, high collared, corseted dress that could have come straight from 1800's Tennessee. The model continued her haunting walk - gliding with an expressionless stare along the catwalk. As she disappeared backstage, the bright spotlights went up, the blue grass faded and the room was filled with the sound of nuwave rock from Man Raze playing in the corner.

A procession of perfectly executed pieces inspired by the American Civil War came onto the catwalk. Full length peace silk dresses - worn with vintage boots - floated by, slouchy jodphurs, neat fitted jackets, indigo dyed dresses and subtle paint splattered prints on hemp jersey. Male models strode by in structured military coats with vintage Civil War buttons layered over herringbone hemp jackets and waistcoats. And, finally a blood red distressed velvet gown brought the show to a close. Stunning.

All pieces were created from organic and sustainable fabrics including cotton, flax, corduroy, denim and Greenspun fleece (made from recycled bottles). Crinkled and washed finishes – synonymous with organic clothing – were given a fashion edge. A kind of homespun with rock musician attitude.

I loved every piece that came along the catwalk. It’s fantastic that it’s a completely sustainable collection but what’s more is that each individual piece is well designed and extremely wearable. And that’s what grabs your attention before anything else.

Unfortunately, I was having camera problems during the show. Or rather, my camera was having photographer problems. So sorry I don't have any catwalk images to show.

Waiting for Henrietta Ludgate

Henrietta Ludgate - SS2010 Collection

I've been a little quiet for the last couple of days so sorry for that. No reason in particular. But hey! London Fashion Week starts on Friday so I'll have plenty of posts to come. I'll be checking out the Estethica exhibition, New Generation Designers and Vauxhall Fashion Scout including the Prophetik show and - fingers crossed - the Ada Zanditon show.

I'm also really looking forward to seeing the AW10 collection from Henrietta Ludgate, who won the Ethical Fashion Forum's Innovation Award for her SS10 collection. Henrietta - a champion of slow fashion - designs from her studio in the remote Scottish Highlands with an ethos of preserving traditional British craftsmanship being central to her work. All fabrics are sourced from within the British Isles and all pieces produced locally to create luxurious, cutting-edge and ethically sourced pieces.

Vintage grunge from Richard Chai Love

Richard Chai Love - AW10 Collection

The nineties are now vintage according to a pink neon sign in Selfridges window. I smiled at the tongue-in-cheek humour of the statement until it dawned on me that perhaps the Nineties really is being classed as vintage. How? How can a decade - that I remember so clearly - now be vintage?

I had a stall on Portobello Market in the Nineties. The era of grunge. I'd swan around the market wearing scuffed 1970's retro trainers, full length slinky skirts with a 1930's bias cut and loose knit, moth eaten sweaters. All worn with a thrown together - yet carefully styled - nonchalance.

Now it's back on the catwalk. Richard Chai's Love collection shown in New York this week has all the hallmarks of Nineties grunge. Fortunately, Richard Chai's collection is not a retrospective of the era - he has revived grunge with a modern edge.

His collection reminds me why I enjoyed Nineties fashion so much: The layers. Layering different textures, layering garments that are not usually worn together, mixing proportions.

It's time to mix up those layers. To be individual.

Prophetik - Sustainable collection to kick-off Vauxhall Fashion Scout

Prophetik collection

February is fashion fervour time. The international 'Fashion Weeks' begin this week with Copenhagen starting today followed by New York Fashion Week tomorrow. London Fashion Week returns to Somerset House on February 19th along with Esthetica the ethical fashion exhibition and off-schedule shows at Vauxhall Fashion Scout.

I'm delighted that Vauxhall Fashion Scout - set-up to promote new and emerging talent during London Fashion Week - is opening with the Tennessee-based sustainable brand Prophetik. Jeff Garner, the designer behind the label, told Drapers Online that he is "looking forward to doing an all-sustainable catwalk show...hoping it will set a marker for the future of the industry...to encourage other companies and individuals to get involved in sustainability."

Prophetik create collections for men and women - some of the pieces being unisex. Other pieces can be worn in more than one style creating a number of looks from one garment. Fabrics include organic cotton, organic silk, hemp and recycled fabrics. The inspiration behind the new collection is "early concepts of sustainability when resources were scarce".

With the brand's strong philosophy for sustainability and it's emphasis upon original design, Prophetik certainly prove that one does not have to be compromised for the other. I can't wait to see the new collection next Friday.

Prophetik's full interview with Drapers here.

Suno New York leads the SS10 fashion tribe

Prada Resort 2010 & Dries van Noten SS2010

I don't know about you but I can't wait for summer to arrive. Ever since those amazing tribal influenced prints came down the SS10 catwalks - back in September - I've been longing to transform my wardrobe with an energising shot of vibrant African print. A flash here. A flash there. All mixed in to revive my summer basics. Oooh! I'm getting quite excited about it now.

Even more exciting is that Suno New York - a label designed in New York and produced in Kenya - is now available in the UK. The label was set up by Max Osterweis as a means to employ local Kenyan talent and showcase some of Kenya's artistry, which could potentially affect positive and lasting social and economic change.

The collections - produced in small, fair trade workshops - incorporate traditional Kenyan kanga prints into modern, eclectic styles with a fashion edge. The collections are testament to the talent behind the label - Kenyan and New Yorker.

Suno New York SS2010

Suno New York SS2010

Suno New York SS2010